It seems fated that a French chef, Patrice Guillet, should be invited to head the kitchen of the Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel & Spa’s “Pauline Borghese” Restaurant. This choice would no doubt have pleased Napoleon’s capricious sister, whose beauty, which earned her the name “Imperial Venus”, can be appreciated in all its immortal glory in Canova’s marble statue in the Galleria Borghese a few steps from the hotel. Indeed, the restaurant is located in the heart of the Borghese family “realm”, in Villa Borghese, from which the hotel takes its name. The splendid park can be appreciated from the veranda of the elegant restaurant in a tranquil, discrete atmosphere.

Patrice Guillet was born in 1967 in Lyon, gourmet capital and home to Paul Bocuse, the holder of three Michelin stars for over thirty years, whom Guillet admires as the greatest of chefs and considers his teacher. Guillet’s passion for cooking began when he was just a boy watching and imitating his mother prepare the family meals. After completing Hotel School, young Patrice gained valuable experience in the finest starred restaurants in Lyon and then moved to Paris to work in the world-renowned Tour d’Argent (three Michelin stars).

In 1994, feeling the lure of Rome, Guillet moved there to join ranks with the team at the famous “Sans Souci” Restaurant, a gastronomical icon at that time with one Michelin star, conceived and created by owner Bruno Borghesi. “It was the great Bruno Borghesi himself who taught me the ‘psychology’ of the restaurant industry,” explains Guillet. “His style outshone that of all the other chefs in Rome, in terms of cuisine but even more so in terms of his warm hospitality, elegant manners, savoir faire and fine taste.” Today, Bruno Borghesi manages the Hotel Splendide Royal’s “Mirabelle” Restaurant (one Michelin star), part of the same Roberto Naldi Hotels chain. After working at the “Antico Bottaro” Restaurant in Rome, Guillet moved on to “Mirabelle” and then, in October 2010, to “Pauline Borghese”.

While always respecting the great gastronomic tradition of France, Guillet has innovated his cuisine by introducing the richness of Italian tastes. With few ingredients of the highest quality, chosen according to the season, he creates delicate dishes, whose subtle flavours combine to create typically Mediterranean tastes. Cooking times are generally brief and the dishes on the whole are made to order. For emulsions, extra-virgin olive oil is preferred to butter. In-season produce including mushrooms, artichoke, savoy cabbage, pumpkin, chestnuts, radicchio and truffle are highlighted in Guillet’s Winter menu. Guillet stated, “My signature dishes are poultry and shellfish, and I especially love exotic fruit and pairing bitter and sweet foods. That explains why the menu features Rolled monkfish in parmesan cheese and rosemary pastry with curry sauce and ginger mango chutney. I also have a passion for lobster, so I have included on the menu Orange-scented Breton lobster with asparagus. I take great care in how the dishes are presented. All the bread and pastries are made here in our kitchen.”

The complete menu begins with “Rare Delicacies”, one-of-a-kind dishes on offer especially at lunch, such as Vegetable flan with wild mushroom ragù and parmesan cream. Next come “Cold Starters”, including Lamb carpaccio in citronette and lemon balm sauce with carrot and celery julienne, and “Warm Starters”, such as the marvellous Sautéed foie gras escalope with pear and caramelized pistachio.

The first courses are divided into Soups, Risottos and Pasta Dishes. Two of the soups are French classics: Fish bouillabaisse seasoned with saffron with baby squid and Onion soup au gratin with two cheeses. The Porcini mushroom and Acqualagna truffle risotto is a seasonal masterpiece. Gragnano linguine with lobster and wild cherries will not fail to delight shellfish lovers. The Agnolotti are homemade, filled with potato puree, black and white truffle, mascarpone and parmesan cheese, served with a cream sauce perfumed with truffle oil, also homemade, and finally, prepared au gratin.

To perfect his Duck à l'orange with apple confit, a dish that epitomizes the Tour d’Argent where he worked, Guillet imports from France actual canette de barbarie, young Muscovy ducks, although he will surely never reveal the secret of the original recipe! The refined Filet de boeuf en boîte flambé and the delicious Crêpes Suzette are a homage to his native land, greatly appreciated by those who succumb to the thrill of the flambé à la table ritual. A separate section is devoted to grilled meats, of which the king is surely Chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce and vegetables.

There are also a wide variety of fish dishes. A Provencal fragrance brings out the freshness of a typically Mediterranean dish such as the tasty Pezzogna stew with capers, taggiasca olives, pomme noisette and crisp chicory, which holds its own beside more venerable fish such as amberjack and sea bass.

Among the desserts, the original Millefeuille with hot apple rennet served with cinnamon and frangipane gelato attests to Guillet’s taste for exotic fruit, which give sweets a touch of refreshing acidity. Another dessert, Crème brûlée “Pauline”, recalls the great seductress.

Particular attention is paid to children and vegetarians, who each have their own menus, and to those with celiac disease, who will find a special section for them, even at breakfast.

“I’m a very curious, open person. I often go out into the restaurant to speak with clients to hear their reactions to my dishes,” stated Guillet. “Their positive comments are my best reward. It’s the first time that I’ve been the Executive Chef in a hotel, and between the gourmet restaurant, banquets and room service, my job is quite complex. Here at ‘Pauline Borghese’, I’ll work enthusiastically with my team to obtain the best reviews in the most prestigious guides. We’re also enhancing the wine list. My cuisine is traditional and innovative at the same time. Nonetheless, an essential ingredient for a restaurant to succeed is impeccable service with a smile, aspects we take very much to heart at Pauline Borghese.”

“Pauline Borghese” Restaurant                                                           

The restaurant takes its name from the statue by Canova on display in the Galleria Borghese a few steps from the hotel, in Villa Borghese park, the vast green heart of Rome. For this reason, the Schönwald underplates of the mise en place have a blue rim with gold leaf Neo-classical decoration and the image of Paolina immortalized in marble by the master sculptor.

The restaurant seats fifty. Open daily from 12PM-3PM and 7PM-10:30PM.

Brunch every Sunday from 12:30 to 3:00 PM. 45 euros per person including mineral water, coffee and DOC wines from the Parco dei Principi wine cellar .

The poolside restaurant “Le Parc Bar & Grill” seats thirty people and is open daily for lunch only.

The wine cellar and wine list are curated by Maître Massimo Moretto.

Ratings by the guides:

ü  Accademia della Cucina: 3 “tempietti”

ü  Guida del Gambero Rosso: 76 points

Parco dei Principi Grand Hotel & SPA

Via G. Frescobaldi 5 (Villa Borghese) – 00198 Rome
Tel. 06/854421 – Fax 06/8845104

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